At Bus Rest Stop On The Way from Lyon to Marseille
The Berkeley Folk Dancing group finished the boat tour in Lyon and took a coach to Marseille on Monday, 3 July and had a minute of trouble getting to the Hotel Mercure because of civil unrest troubling the city. Protests against police brutality in the Paris suburbs escalated to opportunistic looting in the commercial sections of Marseille and our hotel was right downtown in centre-vieux-port. The desk waved us away from the main Cours Canebière for the entire four-day stay. We were steps from the archeological site of the Port Antique and the adjacent Musèe d’Histoire, but they were closed down due to the unrest.
Marseille is the oldest city in France, founded about 600 BC by Greek settlers. It is today the second largest city in France with a population of nearly two million with a whopping 20% immigrants, half of whom are from North Africa especially Algeria, a French colony until 1962.
Camargue Marsh on Left, Dots Outline Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. To the right, Calanque Cliffs
Museum of Soap where Lynne Personalized Her Bar of Soap
About six centuries ago, Marseille was famous for french-milled soap and the second thing I did was visit the Musée du Savon. The first thing was to visit the Tourist Information and have them show me on the map the location of the two restaurants Google suggested for the best bouillabaisse.
Lynne from Canada joined me on the search for the best bouillabaisse, but the restaurants were reeling from the rampages the previous two nights. Not only had the storefronts of the luxury shops been vandalized, but also the glass wind barriers surrounding the bistro tables outside the restaurant. A shaken woman at La Daurade, 8 rue Fortia explained that while they served lunch, they did not know if they would open for dinner at 7 pm because the marauding gangs roamed at night.
We were too hungry to wait until then so Lynne and I had charcuterie at Pub Le Shamrock on the edge of the harbor and returned the following night to enjoy their bouillabaisse. It is just steps away from Chez Loury at 3 rue Fortia, also recommended by Google.
Bouillabaisse at La Daurade, 8 rue Fortia in Marseille.
Notre Dame de la Garde
The next day we set out by coach to visit the jewel Our Lady of Protection, the well-loved church of the faithful of Marseille which dazzles in comparison with the cathedral near the waterfront which is unadorned inside. As you can see below, the church nicknamed “Belle Mère” dominates the skyline.
Harbor of Marseille featuring Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde on top of Hill
Berkeley Folk Dancing About To Visit Notra-Dame-de-la-Garde
Interior of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde with Hanging Ships as Prayers for Protection
The devotion in the south of France to the feminine face of God comes from the tradition that, after the crucifixion of Jesus on political charges, his known followers had to flee for their own safety. This is a detail of the mosaic over the altar that shows the small, single-sail boat that tradition tells us that Mary, the mother of Jesus and Mary Magdalene used to reach the area they call Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the dotted area in the Camargues marsh in the map above. There is a huge church in Paris, the Madeline, in honor of Mary Magdalene.
Detail of Mosaic over the Altar of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde
Walking Marseille
Here’s a quick zoom of some of the highlights. The city has an underground reservoir of fresh water and they show it off with this lavish fountain.
Marseille Fountain over City Water Supply
In the late 1800s an impressive cathedral was built near the waterfront so visitors could instantly be impressed with the power and wealth of the church and the city. Unfortunately, the cathedral is not popular with the people and it is unadorned inside.
Marseille Cathedral near Waterfront
Bougainvillea in Marseille Alley
One of the special treats on our walking tour was a visit to Cafe 13 (the number of the Marseille department) where our guide Dominique taught us the customs around “pastis” which is pronounced with the final S. The waiter put a bottle of tap water and two small tumblers in front of each of us and poured us a 1/2 inch of Ricard and Jayot. He showed us how to dilute it (3:1) and we had a taste test between the two top brands. Horrible both, Ricard less so, but I really appreciated learning about the custom.
There are many beautiful alleys and this steep one with stairs sported a magnificent bougainvillea. I could not resist a very-Marseille selfie.
We also visited the former poorhouse, a hospice for indigent women and children, La Vielle Charité which has restored its magnificent three-story cloisters. Part of it is now an art museum with separate admission so we didn’t visit that. I took a selfie in front of the building, too.
La Vieille Charité Cloisters
Hospice de la Charité
Dominique told us an riveting story about the prehistoric cave at the foot of a Calanques cliff with a below-water entrance that was discovered by the diver Cosquer. Because he tended to be a braggart, people didn’t believe his claims until he produced a photograph that showed a painted handprint on the wall.
Cosquer Museum on Marseille Waterfront – David Hillis photo
We were spellbound as Dominique told us that when the archeologists realized the magnitude of Cosquer’s find, they had to become scuba divers in order to visit the site. Cave diving is very dangerous and two divers lost their way and ran out of air, perishing. Many of us were so intrigued we visited the museum, and the next day Dominique revealed to me that she has written an novel about the cave called “La Main Immortelle” and she showed me on her phone a website featuring the book with the hand on the cover.